Monte Pissis: Height, Location, Geology and Climbing Guide

Monte Pissis

Photo: Black lagoon (Laguna Negra), volcano Pissis, Catamarca, Argentina, by sunsinger.

Rising above one of the driest and most remote landscapes in South America, Monte Pissis is an enormous volcanic mountain in the Argentine Andes. Its broad, snow-streaked summit massif towers over salt flats, barren plateaus, colorful lagoons, and windswept volcanic terrain near the edge of the Atacama Desert.

Monte Pissis is widely recognized as the second-highest volcano in the world, surpassed only by Ojos del Salado. It is also the third-highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, ranking behind Aconcagua and Ojos del Salado. Despite these distinctions, Monte Pissis remains far less visited than either of those better-known Andean giants.

The mountain is not considered highly technical by mountaineering standards, but reaching its summit is a serious high-altitude undertaking. Extreme elevation, powerful winds, freezing temperatures, limited water, difficult road access, and the mountain’s extraordinary isolation make every expedition demanding.

🏔️ Overview

Monte Pissis—also called Nevado Pissis or Volcán Pissis—stands on the provincial boundary between La Rioja and Catamarca in northwestern Argentina. Its highest summit reaches approximately 6,793 meters (22,286 feet) above sea level, although published figures generally range from 6,792 to 6,795 meters.

Unlike the sharply defined cone associated with many famous volcanoes, Monte Pissis is a sprawling volcanic massif with several closely grouped summits. Snowfields, small glaciers, high ridges, and broad volcanic slopes extend across its upper reaches. The main summit is surrounded by several subsidiary peaks, some exceeding 6,700 meters.

Monte Pissis belongs to the Puna de Atacama, a vast elevated plateau spanning parts of Argentina and Chile. This region contains some of the highest volcanoes on Earth, including Ojos del Salado, Tres Cruces, Llullaillaco, Incahuasi, and Cerro Bonete Chico.

Although the mountain has a relatively gentle profile when viewed from a distance, its scale can be deceptive. The surrounding plateau already lies thousands of meters above sea level, reducing the mountain’s apparent height. Climbers approaching across the Puna may therefore see Monte Pissis as a broad line of pale summits rather than a single towering cone.

Monte Pissis nevertheless has approximately 2,147 meters (7,044 feet) of topographic prominence, qualifying it as an ultra-prominent peak. Its nearest higher mountain is Ojos del Salado, approximately 76 kilometers to the north-northeast.

⚡ Fast Facts

CategoryDetails
ContinentSouth America
CountryArgentina
State/ProvinceLa Rioja and Catamarca
County/RegionVinchina Department, La Rioja / Tinogasta Department, Catamarca
Mountain RangeAndes
Subrange/RegionPuna de Atacama
Parent PeakOjos del Salado
ElevationApproximately 6,793 m (22,286 ft)
ProminenceApproximately 2,147 m (7,044 ft)
IsolationApproximately 75.8 km (47.1 mi)
Nearest Higher NeighborOjos del Salado
Mountain TypeExtinct andesitic-dacitic volcanic complex
CoordinatesApproximately 27.7555° S, 68.7983° W
First Recorded Ascent1937
First AscensionistsStefan Osiecki and Jan Alfred Szczepański
Typical Climbing SeasonDecember through March

The exact elevation varies slightly among mapping and mountaineering databases. Peakbagger lists the summit at 6,793 meters, PeakVisor uses 6,795 meters, and other widely cited references give 6,792 meters. The difference is small enough that all three figures describe essentially the same summit elevation, but 6,793 meters is a reasonable working figure based on modern topographic data. (Peakbagger)

📍 Location

Monte Pissis is located in a sparsely populated section of the central Andes of northwestern Argentina, close to the international border with Chile. The mountain straddles the boundary between La Rioja and Catamarca provinces, although different maps may place the precise summit point slightly to one side of the provincial line.

The mountain rises approximately 25 kilometers east of the Chilean border and roughly 550 kilometers north of Aconcagua. Its surroundings form part of the high Andean desert known as the Puna de Atacama, where broad volcanic plains commonly stand between 4,000 and 5,000 meters above sea level.

This is an environment of remarkable extremes. Annual precipitation is extremely low, vegetation is scarce, and settlements are separated by enormous distances. The landscape consists of:

  • High volcanic plateaus
  • Salt flats and mineral-rich basins
  • Multicolored lagoons
  • Gravel plains
  • Ancient lava flows
  • Snowfields and small glaciers
  • Isolated volcanic peaks

One of the most common gateways to Monte Pissis is Fiambalá, a small town in Catamarca Province. Fiambalá is also a staging point for journeys along the Ruta de los Seismiles, or Route of the Six-Thousanders, which passes near numerous peaks exceeding 6,000 meters.

Expeditions approaching through La Rioja may travel through Vinchina, Jagüé, Laguna Brava, or the Corona del Inca region. Roads beyond the main towns are rough, remote, and highly dependent on weather and seasonal conditions. Four-wheel-drive vehicles, local knowledge, spare fuel, reliable navigation, and emergency supplies are normally required.

Monte Pissis is not surrounded by the dense network of villages, trekking lodges, or maintained trails found near popular mountains elsewhere in the Andes. Once teams leave the final settlements, outside assistance may be many hours—or even days—away.

A Mountain Shared by Two Provinces

Monte Pissis has geographic importance to both Catamarca and La Rioja. Peakbagger identifies it as the highest point of La Rioja, while its northern or northeastern approaches are closely associated with Fiambalá and Tinogasta in Catamarca.

The border location occasionally causes differences in descriptions of the mountain. Some sources call it a Catamarca summit, others describe it as belonging to La Rioja, and many correctly identify it as a mountain shared by both provinces.

For travelers, the distinction is less important than the chosen approach. Routes from Catamarca and La Rioja involve different access roads, logistical arrangements, permit considerations, and acclimatization stops.

📏 Elevation and Prominence

Monte Pissis has long been associated with disagreements over its exact elevation. Older surveys sometimes produced dramatically higher figures, and one 1990s expedition briefly suggested that the mountain might exceed Ojos del Salado in height.

Later measurements using more accurate satellite and differential GPS technology established that Ojos del Salado is clearly higher. Modern estimates generally place Monte Pissis between 6,792 and 6,795 meters, while Ojos del Salado reaches approximately 6,893 meters.

Using an elevation of 6,793 meters, Monte Pissis ranks as:

  • The second-highest volcano in the world
  • The third-highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere
  • The third-highest mountain in South America
  • One of Argentina’s four highest summits
  • One of the world’s highest ultra-prominent peaks

The mountain’s prominence of approximately 2,147 meters means that a climber traveling from Monte Pissis toward any higher mountain would first have to descend more than two vertical kilometers before ascending again.

Its topographic isolation is approximately 75.8 kilometers. The higher terrain that ends that isolation belongs to Ojos del Salado, which is both Monte Pissis’s parent peak and nearest higher neighbor.

These statistics distinguish Monte Pissis from many other high Andean summits. Several peaks in the region exceed 6,000 meters but rise only modestly above adjoining ridges. Monte Pissis, by contrast, possesses enough prominence to qualify as an independent mountain of global significance.

Why Elevation Figures Differ

Differences of a few meters are common in high-mountain measurements. Several factors can affect a published elevation:

  • The geographic datum used by the survey
  • The accuracy of GPS equipment
  • Atmospheric interference
  • Whether the highest rock or snow surface was measured
  • Changes in seasonal snow and ice
  • Corrections applied to satellite data
  • The exact summit point selected within a broad massif

Monte Pissis is especially difficult to measure because its summit area contains several high points rather than one unmistakable cone. Peakbagger identifies the highest point as Cumbre CAM and lists several subsidiary summits between approximately 6,685 and 6,785 meters.

For general reference, describing Monte Pissis as approximately 6,793 meters or 22,286 feet high provides a practical balance between the leading modern measurements.

🪨 Geology

Monte Pissis is the deeply eroded remnant of a massive volcanic system. It consists largely of andesitic and dacitic rock, compositions commonly produced by volcanic activity above subduction zones.

The mountain formed as the oceanic Nazca Plate descended beneath the South American Plate. Water and other volatile materials released from the descending crust contributed to melting within the mantle and lower continental crust. Magma then rose through the thickened crust of the Andes, producing enormous volcanic centers across the region.

Most of the Monte Pissis complex is believed to have formed approximately 6.6 to 6.2 million years ago, during the late Miocene. Volcanic activity subsequently declined, and major volcanism associated with the mountain had ended by roughly two million years ago.

Millions of years of erosion, glaciation, freeze-thaw action, and wind have altered the original shape of the volcano. Instead of retaining a symmetrical crater and cone, Monte Pissis now forms an enormous complex of:

  • Lava ridges
  • Weathered volcanic summits
  • Broad debris-covered slopes
  • High saddles
  • Glacial basins
  • Snowfields
  • Rock-covered plateaus

The mountain is closely associated with Cerro Bonete Chico and the Incapillo volcanic complex. Together, these features represent different stages in the evolution of volcanism near the southern edge of the Central Andean volcanic region.

Incapillo is younger than much of Monte Pissis and contains a large volcanic caldera partly occupied by the lake known as Corona del Inca. Its presence shows that volcanic and hydrothermal processes continued in the surrounding region after the main construction of Monte Pissis had ended.

Is Monte Pissis an Active Volcano?

Monte Pissis is generally described as extinct, meaning there is no evidence of recent eruptions and no recognized expectation that the main volcanic system will erupt again. It is an ancient volcanic complex rather than an active cone with a documented Holocene eruption history.

That does not mean the broader region is geologically inactive. The Andes remain tectonically active, and nearby volcanic and hydrothermal systems reflect the continuing influence of subduction beneath western South America.

For visitors, the primary natural dangers are therefore not eruptions. The most serious hazards are altitude sickness, severe weather, cold, high winds, difficult terrain, crevasses, vehicle problems, and the lack of immediate rescue assistance.

🏔️ Field Guide Tip: The broad appearance of Monte Pissis can make the climb seem easier than it is. Even nontechnical slopes above 6,000 meters become extremely strenuous because of low oxygen, cold, wind, and accumulated fatigue. Climbers should plan several acclimatization days before attempting the summit.

🌤️ Climate and Weather

Monte Pissis rises within the Puna de Atacama, one of the highest and driest regions on Earth. The mountain stands in a cold desert environment characterized by extremely low humidity, intense sunlight, strong winds, and dramatic temperature changes between day and night.

Conditions on the surrounding plateau can appear calm and mild during sunny afternoons, but the weather becomes increasingly severe with elevation. Near the summit, climbers may encounter:

  • Subzero temperatures
  • Powerful westerly winds
  • Blowing snow
  • Sudden cloud formation
  • Electrical storms
  • Whiteout conditions
  • Rapidly changing snow and ice

The thin atmosphere is another defining feature of the mountain. At nearly 6,800 meters above sea level, the air contains far less available oxygen than it does at sea level. Walking becomes slow, breathing becomes difficult, and even simple activities such as preparing food or organizing equipment can require considerable effort.

Although Monte Pissis is located in a desert, snowstorms can occur throughout the climbing season. Summer moisture occasionally reaches the region during the weather pattern commonly known as the Bolivian Winter. This can bring afternoon clouds, snowfall, lightning, and localized flooding between approximately December and March.

Wind is often the most persistent challenge. The mountain’s high camps are exposed, rocky, and largely without natural shelter. Strong gusts may damage tents, blow away equipment, increase the risk of frostbite, and make progress exhausting.

Summit attempts normally begin several hours before sunrise. An early start allows climbers to take advantage of firmer snow and provides more time to descend before afternoon winds or storms develop.

❄️ Snowfields, Glaciers and Penitentes

Monte Pissis holds more permanent snow and ice than many other volcanoes in the Puna de Atacama. Its broad upper massif contains snowfields, small glaciers, icy saddles, and several high summit ridges.

Snow conditions vary greatly from year to year. During dry seasons, climbers may find long stretches of exposed rock, loose scree, and hard ice. After a snowy winter or summer storm cycle, the same route may be covered by deep snow that makes travel considerably slower.

The normal northern route crosses a broad snowfield often called the northern snowfield or the Glaciar de los Argentinos. Crampons are frequently required when the surface is frozen, and an ice axe may be useful for balance and self-arrest.

Small crevasses may be present in some glaciated areas. These are generally less extensive than those found on major glaciers in Patagonia or the Himalayas, but they should still be treated seriously. Fresh snow can conceal openings and weaken snow bridges.

One of the most unusual features of Monte Pissis is the presence of penitentes. These are narrow blades or towers of hardened snow and ice created by intense sunlight, sublimation, and the exceptionally dry atmosphere of the high Andes.

Penitentes can range from knee-high formations to walls taller than a person. They may force climbers to weave between sharp ice structures or spend additional time searching for a practical route.

Snow is often the most dependable water source at high camp. Expedition teams must carry enough stove fuel to melt large quantities of snow for drinking and cooking. Dehydration develops quickly in the dry air, particularly because climbers lose significant moisture through breathing.

🏔️ Field Guide Tip: Melt and store more water than you expect to need before summit day. Producing water at a windy high camp is slow, and dehydration can worsen headaches, fatigue, and altitude sickness.

🌿 Flora and Fauna

The upper slopes of Monte Pissis support almost no vegetation. Severe cold, low precipitation, strong winds, poor volcanic soils, and extreme altitude create an environment in which few plants can survive.

Sparse grasses, cushion plants, lichens, and low shrubs may grow at lower elevations or near seasonal streams. Vegetation becomes increasingly scattered above approximately 4,500 meters, and the upper mountain consists almost entirely of bare volcanic rock, snow, and ice.

The wider Puna de Atacama nevertheless supports a distinctive group of high-altitude animals. Wildlife that may be seen during the approach includes:

  • Vicuñas
  • Guanacos
  • Culpeo foxes
  • Mountain viscachas
  • Andean flamingos
  • James’s flamingos
  • Andean geese
  • Puna tinamous
  • Small rodents and lizards

Vicuñas are among the animals most closely associated with the high plateau. Their thick coats protect them from freezing temperatures, while their respiratory and circulatory systems are adapted to life in thin air. They are often seen moving across open plains or grazing near high-altitude wetlands.

Several species of flamingo gather around the region’s mineral-rich lagoons. Laguna Azul, Laguna Verde, Laguna de los Aparejos, and other high-altitude lakes provide feeding and resting habitat for birds capable of tolerating cold temperatures, high salinity, and intense solar radiation.

Wildlife becomes increasingly scarce closer to the mountain. Above the highest wetlands, climbers may see little more than an occasional bird.

Despite its barren appearance, the ecosystem is fragile. Plants grow slowly, soils recover poorly from disturbance, and vehicle tracks may remain visible for many years. Visitors should stay on established routes, avoid disturbing wildlife, and carry all waste out of the region.

🥾 Hiking and Climbing Routes

Monte Pissis is often described as a nontechnical high-altitude climb, but this description can be misleading. The normal route does not usually require advanced rock-climbing skills, yet the mountain remains a serious expedition objective.

Its difficulty comes from the combination of:

  • Extreme altitude
  • Long summit days
  • Remote vehicle access
  • Loose volcanic terrain
  • Snow and ice
  • Strong winds
  • Limited water
  • Difficult navigation
  • Few rescue options

Climbers need excellent physical conditioning, careful acclimatization, reliable navigation equipment, and the ability to operate independently in a remote mountain environment.

Northern Normal Route from Fiambalá

The most frequently used route approaches Monte Pissis from the north through Catamarca Province. The town of Fiambalá serves as the main logistical center for expeditions.

Fiambalá lies at a much lower elevation than Monte Pissis, allowing teams to organize food, fuel, transportation, guides, permits, and emergency supplies before entering the high Andes.

From Fiambalá, expeditions travel west along the international highway toward Paso de San Francisco. They eventually leave the paved road and follow rough four-wheel-drive tracks toward the mountain.

The approach passes through an extraordinary landscape of volcanic ridges, desert plains, salt flats, and intensely colored lagoons. Laguna Azul is one of the best-known landmarks along the route.

Road conditions vary considerably. Deep sand, loose rocks, snowdrifts, stream crossings, and damaged tracks may prevent vehicles from reaching the usual base camp. A reliable four-wheel-drive vehicle and an experienced local driver are strongly recommended.

Depending on conditions, teams may establish a base camp at approximately 4,600 meters. From there, climbers commonly use one or more higher camps before attempting the summit.

A typical itinerary may include:

  • An acclimatization camp between 3,600 and 4,200 meters
  • Base camp near 4,600 meters
  • An intermediate camp near 5,100 meters
  • High camp between approximately 5,500 and 5,750 meters
  • A summit attempt followed by descent

Camp locations vary according to snow cover, water availability, wind exposure, road access, and the acclimatization level of the group.

Base Camp to High Camp

From base camp, the route generally climbs through a wide valley or shallow ravine. The terrain alternates between loose gravel, volcanic rock, snow patches, and frozen ground.

The slopes are not exceptionally steep, but carrying tents, food, fuel, and climbing equipment above 5,000 meters is physically demanding. Some teams use a series of load carries, transporting supplies to a higher camp before returning to sleep at a lower elevation.

An intermediate camp near 5,100 meters may provide limited protection from the wind. Higher camps are far more exposed and often located on open gravel or snow.

Tents must be securely anchored with rocks, snow anchors, or buried stakes. Loose equipment can disappear quickly during strong winds.

The choice of high camp has a major effect on summit day. A lower camp offers more protection and may be easier to reach, but it creates a longer summit climb. A higher camp reduces the vertical gain on summit day but places climbers in a colder and more exposed environment.

The Normal Snowfield Route

The standard summit route crosses the northern snowfield and climbs toward the upper summit basin. Climbers generally leave high camp in darkness and ascend gradually toward the main ridge.

The lower snowfield is usually moderate, but movement becomes much slower above 6,000 meters. Climbers may need crampons when the snow is hard or icy.

The route eventually enters a broad basin beneath the summit ridges. From there, it continues between rocky outcrops and across a series of snow-covered slopes toward the highest summit.

Monte Pissis has several closely grouped summits and false summits. The broad shape of the massif makes it difficult to judge distance, and a point that appears nearby may still require several hours of climbing.

The final ridge contains steeper and rockier terrain but is generally climbed without technical rock-climbing equipment. Conditions may require the use of crampons and an ice axe.

Summit day is long. Well-acclimatized climbers may need approximately 10 to 14 hours to reach the summit and return to high camp. Deep snow, penitentes, strong winds, or route-finding problems can extend the day considerably.

Southern Approach from La Rioja

Monte Pissis may also be approached from the south through La Rioja Province. This route is less frequently used and is generally more remote and complicated than the northern approach.

Southern expeditions may travel through the Laguna Brava region, the Incapillo caldera, or isolated valleys below the mountain. These approaches provide impressive views of Monte Pissis’s broad southern face and multiple summit ridges.

Road access can be difficult, and some routes require several days of walking after the final vehicle camp. Water sources are limited, tracks may be unclear, and outside assistance is extremely distant.

The southern side has also been used for more challenging snow and ice routes. These lines are intended for experienced mountaineers and should not be confused with the northern normal route.

For most climbers, the northern route from Fiambalá remains the most practical and commonly attempted option.

⚠️ Main Climbing Hazards

Altitude Illness

Altitude is the greatest danger on Monte Pissis. Acute mountain sickness may cause headaches, nausea, dizziness, weakness, poor sleep, and loss of appetite.

More severe conditions include high-altitude pulmonary edema and high-altitude cerebral edema. Both can become fatal without immediate descent and medical treatment.

Climbers should ascend gradually, include rest days, and avoid increasing their sleeping elevation too quickly. Physical fitness does not protect a person from altitude illness.

Wind and Cold

Strong winds can produce dangerously low wind-chill temperatures. Frostbite most often affects fingers, toes, cheeks, ears, and noses.

Climbers need insulated layers, a windproof outer shell, warm mittens, high-altitude boots, face protection, and glacier goggles. Spare gloves and emergency insulation should be carried on summit day.

Navigation

The mountain’s broad slopes are not always clearly marked. Tracks may disappear under snow, and the multiple summit ridges can cause confusion.

Teams should carry:

  • A GPS device
  • Offline maps
  • A compass
  • Spare batteries
  • Recorded route coordinates
  • A satellite communicator

Whiteout conditions can make navigation particularly difficult during the descent.

Vehicle Problems

The drive to base camp is part of the expedition challenge. Sharp rocks may puncture tires, deep sand can trap vehicles, and snow or flood damage may block the road.

Expedition vehicles should carry spare tires, recovery equipment, extra fuel, drinking water, food, and emergency shelter.

A vehicle breakdown in the Puna can become a serious survival situation because passing traffic is uncommon and mobile phone service is generally unavailable.

Isolation

Monte Pissis has no staffed mountain huts, maintained rescue posts, or dependable emergency services near the normal route.

Climbers should leave a detailed itinerary with a responsible contact and establish a clear emergency communication plan. Teams must be prepared to manage injuries, weather delays, and equipment problems without immediate outside assistance.

🌤️ Best Time to Visit

The most popular period for climbing Monte Pissis is during the austral summer, particularly from December through March.

During these months:

  • Temperatures are generally less severe
  • Daylight hours are longer
  • Approach roads are more likely to remain open
  • Snow conditions are usually more manageable
  • Local expedition services are more readily available

A broader climbing season may extend from October through April, but conditions outside midsummer can be significantly colder and less predictable.

Early-season climbers may encounter deeper snow, blocked roads, and unstable weather. Later in the season, the snow may become harder and the penitentes more developed.

January and February are among the warmest months, but they may also bring afternoon storms associated with summer moisture. December and March can sometimes provide a balance between manageable temperatures and reduced storm activity.

Winter ascents are possible only for highly experienced and fully equipped expedition teams. Temperatures may fall far below freezing, access roads can become impassable, and rescue support is extremely limited.

Travelers who do not intend to climb the mountain can still explore the region on guided four-wheel-drive excursions. Popular destinations include the Balcón del Pissis, Laguna Azul, Laguna Verde, and other viewpoints along the Route of the Six-Thousanders.

These sightseeing journeys still reach very high elevations. Visitors should allow time to acclimatize, carry warm clothing, drink plenty of water, and avoid strenuous activity immediately after arriving.

🏔️ Field Guide Tip: Do not travel directly from low elevation to the Monte Pissis base camp. Spending several days at progressively higher locations can significantly improve comfort and reduce the risk of altitude illness.

🧗 Climbing History

Monte Pissis has a fascinating mountaineering history shaped by early Andean exploration, uncertain maps, competing elevation measurements, and the difficulties of reaching one of South America’s most isolated high mountains.

Unlike Aconcagua, which became an internationally recognized expedition objective during the early 20th century, Monte Pissis remained largely unknown outside specialist mountaineering circles. Its remote location, lack of reliable roads, scarcity of water, and confusing group of summit points discouraged frequent attempts for decades.

The Origin of the Name Monte Pissis

Before receiving its modern name, the mountain was reportedly known by regional names including Pillanhuasi and Nacimientos del Jagüe. Spellings vary among historical accounts, and some sources use Nacimientos del Jagüel.

The name Pissis was assigned during surveys conducted by the Chilean Commission for the Exploration of the Desert in the 1880s. The commission was led by Francisco San Román and was responsible for mapping remote parts of the central Andes.

In 1885, the mountain was named after Pierre Joseph Aimé Pissis, known in Spanish as Pedro José Amadeo Pissis. He was a French geographer and geologist who worked for the Chilean government and became an important figure in the scientific mapping of South America.

Although the mountain stands entirely within Argentina, its modern name emerged from Chilean exploration of the border region.

The Polish Expedition of 1937

The first recorded ascent of Monte Pissis was completed by Polish mountaineers Stefan Osiecki and Jan Alfred Szczepański during the Second Polish Andean Expedition.

The ascent is generally dated to February 7, 1937.

The expedition included several prominent Polish climbers and explorers who traveled through the high Andes of Argentina and Chile. Their objectives included unclimbed peaks in the remote volcanic region surrounding Monte Pissis, Tres Cruces, and Ojos del Salado.

Reaching Monte Pissis was far more complicated in 1937 than it is today. The team began its journey from the Tinogasta area with local mule drivers and a large pack train. Supplies had to be transported across long stretches of barren terrain where water was scarce, grazing was poor, and maps were incomplete.

Osiecki and Szczepański eventually climbed the mountain from the north. Because Monte Pissis contains several closely grouped summit points and early surveys were imprecise, some uncertainty remains about the exact summit they reached.

Nevertheless, they are widely credited with the mountain’s first ascent.

The achievement formed part of an extraordinary period of Polish exploration in the Andes. Members of the expedition also participated in early ascents of Ojos del Salado and several other previously unclimbed mountains.

Decades of Isolation

Monte Pissis received remarkably little attention after the Polish ascent. Mountaineering accounts commonly report that the mountain was not climbed again until 1985, nearly half a century later.

Several factors explain the long gap:

  • The mountain was difficult to reach.
  • Reliable maps were unavailable.
  • Water sources were poorly documented.
  • Few roads entered the surrounding Puna.
  • Aconcagua attracted most foreign expeditions to Argentina.
  • The exact elevation and ranking of Monte Pissis remained uncertain.
  • The summit massif was difficult to interpret from below.

Even experienced Andean climbers often selected mountains that had better-known approaches, established base camps, or easier access to rescue assistance.

Monte Pissis began receiving more visitors after roads associated with mineral exploration and mining were constructed through parts of the region. These tracks did not make the journey easy, but they allowed four-wheel-drive vehicles to travel much closer to the mountain.

Naming the Principal Summits

Monte Pissis is not a single, perfectly defined volcanic cone. It is an enormous massif containing several high summit points separated by saddles, snowfields, and rocky ridges.

Five principal summits are commonly identified from east to west:

  1. Ejército Argentino
  2. UPAME
  3. Cardenal Samoré
  4. CAM
  5. Gendarmería Nacional

Some topographic descriptions count additional subsidiary summits, which explains why the mountain is variously described as having five or six major high points.

The names became more widely used following a major international expedition organized in 1994. That expedition involved representatives from Argentine and international mountaineering organizations, including the Unión Panamericana de Asociaciones de Montañismo y Escalada.

On November 18, 1994, ten members of the expedition reached the summit area. The group included Laura Suárez, who is described in mountaineering accounts as the first woman to summit Monte Pissis.

The highest point is generally identified as the CAM summit, although the broad and complicated terrain contributed to earlier disagreements about which summit was highest.

The Elevation Debate

During the 1990s, Monte Pissis briefly became the center of an international elevation controversy.

Measurements taken during a 1994 expedition suggested that Monte Pissis might be higher than Ojos del Salado—and perhaps even the second-highest mountain in South America. The result generated renewed interest in a mountain that had previously received little international attention.

Later differential GPS surveys produced lower and more reliable measurements. Most modern topographic databases now place Monte Pissis at approximately 6,792 to 6,795 meters, with 6,793 meters commonly used.

Ojos del Salado, at approximately 6,893 meters, is about 100 meters higher. Monte Pissis therefore ranks as the:

  • Third-highest mountain in South America
  • Third-highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere
  • Second-highest volcano on Earth

The disagreement helps explain why older guidebooks and Argentine maps sometimes list Monte Pissis at 6,882 meters. That older figure continues to appear in local sources, route descriptions, signs, and historical mountaineering records.

First Winter Ascent

The first reported winter ascent of Monte Pissis was completed on September 16, 2006, by Argentine mountaineers Guillermo Glass, Rolando Linzing, and Darío Bracali.

The team used a new approach from the south. Deep snow prevented their vehicles from continuing, forcing the climbers to walk and ski approximately 50 kilometers across remote terrain.

They then opened a route on the enormous southwest face. The climb involved snow slopes of approximately 40 to 45 degrees, followed by a col and high ridge.

Conditions were exceptionally severe. Temperatures reportedly approached −40°F, or approximately −40°C, and the team found unfrozen water only twice during the nine-day expedition.

The ascent demonstrated that Monte Pissis, although normally regarded as nontechnical during summer, can become a formidable mountaineering challenge in winter.

Monte Pissis Today

Monte Pissis remains much quieter than Aconcagua or Ojos del Salado. Most climbers arrive as part of guided expeditions from Fiambalá, often combining the mountain with acclimatization climbs elsewhere along the Route of the Six-Thousanders.

Modern four-wheel-drive access has shortened the approach, but the mountain has not become a simple commercial expedition peak. Road conditions remain uncertain, camps are undeveloped, and climbers must be largely self-sufficient.

There are no established mountain huts, maintained summit trails, staffed medical facilities, or permanent rescue posts on the normal route.

The mountain’s relative solitude is one of its greatest attractions. A team may spend days in the region without encountering another climbing party.

🏔️ Field Guide Tip: Do not depend entirely on an old GPS track. Snow, erosion, flooding, mining activity, and vehicle traffic can alter approach roads. Carry current coordinates, offline maps, a compass, and a satellite communication device.

🧭 Nearby Mountains and Attractions

Monte Pissis rises within one of the greatest concentrations of 6,000-meter mountains outside Asia. The surrounding region offers volcanic peaks, high-altitude lagoons, enormous craters, salt flats, wildlife habitats, and some of the most dramatic desert scenery in the Andes.

Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado is located north-northwest of Monte Pissis along the Argentina–Chile border. At approximately 6,893 meters, it is the highest volcano on Earth and the second-highest mountain in South America.

It is also Monte Pissis’s nearest higher neighbor and topographic parent.

Ojos del Salado receives more climbing traffic and has better-established expedition infrastructure on its Chilean side. The Argentine approach is considerably more remote.

Because both mountains rise in the same high-desert region, climbers sometimes consider combining them. Attempting both, however, requires a lengthy expedition and careful planning for transportation, permits, weather, and recovery time.

Nevado Tres Cruces

The Nevado Tres Cruces massif stands close to Ojos del Salado and contains several major summits. Its highest point, Tres Cruces Sur, reaches approximately 6,748 meters.

The massif is visible from parts of the Monte Pissis summit area and forms one of the dominant landmarks of the northern Puna.

Tres Cruces is another serious expedition objective, although it generally receives fewer climbers than Ojos del Salado.

Incahuasi

Incahuasi is a large stratovolcano on the border between Argentina and Chile. Its elevation is approximately 6,621 meters.

The mountain has a more recognizable volcanic profile than Monte Pissis and rises near the Paso de San Francisco corridor. Archaeological discoveries indicate that high areas of the mountain were visited during the Inca period.

Incahuasi may be seen during journeys through the Route of the Six-Thousanders and is sometimes used as a separate climbing objective.

Cerro Bonete Chico

Cerro Bonete Chico, also known as Bonete, reaches approximately 6,759 meters and is one of the highest mountains in Argentina.

It rises southeast of Monte Pissis and belongs to the same broad volcanic region. Despite its height, Bonete Chico is significantly less prominent than Monte Pissis and appears as part of an extensive highland complex.

The mountain is extremely remote and is attempted far less frequently than the better-known volcanoes near Fiambalá.

Cerro Veladero

Cerro Veladero is an inactive volcano southwest of Monte Pissis. It reaches approximately 6,436 meters.

An Argentine team completed its first reported winter ascent on September 16, 2006—the same day that the first winter ascent of Monte Pissis was completed.

Veladero can be viewed from the Laguna Brava and Corona del Inca regions. Its isolated location and complicated access make it an expedition rather than an ordinary hiking destination.

Incapillo Caldera and Corona del Inca

The Incapillo caldera is an enormous volcanic depression associated with volcanic activity that occurred after the main Monte Pissis complex had stopped erupting.

Within this region lies Corona del Inca, a spectacular crater containing a high-altitude lake at approximately 5,430 meters. It is among the highest lakes accessible by vehicle, although the route requires a capable four-wheel-drive vehicle, experienced navigation, favorable conditions, and local guidance.

From the Corona del Inca area, travelers may see Monte Pissis, Bonete Chico, Bonete Grande, and Veladero.

The journey is exceptionally remote. Snow, ice, streams, and damaged tracks can make the route impassable.

Balcón del Pissis

The Balcón del Pissis is one of the best viewpoints in the Catamarca highlands. It overlooks a surreal landscape of colorful lagoons with Monte Pissis rising in the distance.

Guided four-wheel-drive excursions commonly visit the viewpoint from Fiambalá. These trips allow visitors to experience the mountain without joining a summit expedition.

The Balcón still lies at a very high elevation. Travelers may experience headache, nausea, breathlessness, or dizziness even when remaining inside a vehicle for much of the journey.

Laguna Azul and Laguna Verde

Laguna Azul and Laguna Verde are high-altitude lakes surrounded by volcanic ridges, mineral deposits, and desert plains.

Their colors result from combinations of water depth, dissolved minerals, sediment, light, and reflections from the surrounding terrain.

The lakes are important visual landmarks on excursions toward Monte Pissis and the Route of the Six-Thousanders. Depending on the season, nearby wetlands may support flamingos and other high-Andean birds.

Visitors should remain on established tracks and avoid approaching nesting or feeding birds.

Laguna Brava Provincial Reserve

The Laguna Brava Provincial Reserve protects high-altitude lakes, volcanic landscapes, wetlands, and wildlife in La Rioja Province.

Laguna Brava lies at approximately 4,230 meters and provides habitat for flamingos and other aquatic birds. Vicuñas and guanacos are also frequently seen in the surrounding landscape.

The reserve is approached along the international road toward Paso Pircas Negras. Travel normally requires an authorized or experienced local guide because of the altitude, changing road conditions, and remoteness.

Route of the Six-Thousanders

The Ruta de los Seismiles, or Route of the Six-Thousanders, follows the high Andean corridor west of Fiambalá.

Nearly 20 summits exceeding 6,000 meters rise around the broader route. Major peaks include:

  • Monte Pissis
  • Ojos del Salado
  • Incahuasi
  • Tres Cruces
  • Walter Penck
  • Nacimiento
  • San Francisco
  • El Muerto

The route is one of the greatest high-altitude scenic drives in South America. It combines mountaineering access with views of salt flats, dunes, volcanoes, wetlands, and colorful lagoons.

Fiambalá

Fiambalá is the principal tourism and expedition center for Monte Pissis’s northern approach.

The town is used to arrange:

  • Four-wheel-drive transportation
  • Local mountain guides
  • Expedition permits and registration
  • Fuel and food
  • Accommodation
  • Weather and road information
  • Emergency contacts

Fiambalá is also known for its thermal springs, vineyards, adobe architecture, and surrounding desert scenery.

Although the town is an ideal logistical base, it lies too low to provide complete acclimatization for Monte Pissis. Climbers should still spend several days at progressively higher camps before attempting the summit.

💡 Fun Facts

  • Monte Pissis is the second-highest volcano in the world, after Ojos del Salado.
  • It is the third-highest mountain in South America, behind Aconcagua and Ojos del Salado.
  • The mountain is named after French geographer and geologist Pierre Joseph Aimé Pissis.
  • Monte Pissis was previously associated with names including Pillanhuasi and Nacimientos del Jagüe.
  • Its first recorded ascent was completed by Polish climbers in 1937.
  • The highest summit is generally identified as Cumbre CAM.
  • The mountain has approximately 2,145 to 2,147 meters of prominence, qualifying it as an ultra-prominent peak.
  • Its nearest higher neighbor is Ojos del Salado, approximately 76 kilometers away.
  • Monte Pissis briefly appeared to be the second-highest mountain in South America after a disputed GPS measurement in 1994.
  • Later surveys confirmed that Ojos del Salado is approximately 100 meters higher.
  • Despite standing in an extremely dry desert, Monte Pissis contains snowfields and several small glaciers.
  • Some parts of the mountain develop large penitentes—bladelike towers of hardened snow and ice.
  • Monte Pissis is shared by Argentina’s Catamarca and La Rioja provinces.
  • The official interprovincial boundary passes through the mountain’s highest area.
  • The first reported winter ascent was completed in 2006 by a new route on the southwest face.
  • Temperatures during that winter expedition approached −40°C.
  • Monte Pissis is much less crowded than Aconcagua, and some expeditions encounter no other climbers.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

How high is Monte Pissis?

Monte Pissis is approximately 6,793 meters, or 22,286 feet, above sea level.

Published measurements range from approximately 6,792 to 6,795 meters. Some older Argentine sources continue to use an elevation of 6,882 meters, but modern surveys generally support the lower figure.

Is Monte Pissis the highest volcano in the world?

No. Ojos del Salado is the highest volcano in the world at approximately 6,893 meters.

Monte Pissis is the world’s second-highest volcano.

Is Monte Pissis higher than Aconcagua?

No. Aconcagua reaches approximately 6,961 meters and is about 168 meters higher than Monte Pissis.

Aconcagua is the highest mountain in South America, while Monte Pissis ranks third.

Is Monte Pissis an active volcano?

Monte Pissis is generally classified as an extinct or inactive volcanic complex. Its principal construction occurred millions of years ago, and there is no confirmed recent eruption history.

The broader region remains geologically influenced by the continuing subduction of the Nazca Plate beneath South America.

When was Monte Pissis first climbed?

The first recorded ascent was completed on February 7, 1937, by Polish mountaineers Stefan Osiecki and Jan Alfred Szczepański.

Is Monte Pissis difficult to climb?

The normal route is generally nontechnical under favorable summer conditions, but the overall climb is extremely demanding.

Its principal difficulties are:

  • Extreme altitude
  • A long summit day
  • Strong winds
  • Freezing temperatures
  • Snow and ice
  • Difficult access
  • Limited water
  • Isolation from rescue services

It should not be treated as an ordinary hike.

Do climbers need ropes and technical equipment?

The normal route may not always require a rope, but climbers should carry equipment appropriate for current glacier and snow conditions.

Crampons and an ice axe are frequently useful. A rope, harness, and glacier-rescue equipment may be appropriate when crevasses are concealed or when conditions are uncertain.

Equipment decisions should be based on recent route information rather than general descriptions of the mountain.

How long does it take to climb Monte Pissis?

A complete expedition commonly requires approximately 10 to 14 days, including travel, acclimatization, load carries, rest days, and the summit attempt.

Climbers who arrive fully acclimatized may complete the mountain more quickly, but rushing the ascent significantly increases the risk of altitude illness.

What is the best month to climb Monte Pissis?

The most common climbing period extends from December through March.

December and March may provide somewhat cooler conditions, while January and February generally bring warmer temperatures but a greater possibility of summer storms.

Conditions vary every year.

Can Monte Pissis be climbed without a guide?

Experienced, well-acclimatized mountaineers may climb independently, but the expedition requires strong navigation, remote-travel, high-altitude, and emergency-management skills.

A local guide is strongly recommended for climbers unfamiliar with the region. The complicated vehicle approach can be as challenging as route-finding on the mountain.

Are there huts on Monte Pissis?

No. There are no staffed huts or developed campgrounds on the normal climbing route.

Expeditions must carry their own tents, cooking equipment, fuel, food, emergency shelter, and communication devices.

Is water available on the mountain?

Liquid water is scarce. Climbers often depend on melting snow at higher camps.

Lower water sources may be seasonal, frozen, salty, or affected by mineral content. Teams should confirm current water conditions and carry sufficient fuel for snow melting.

Can visitors see Monte Pissis without climbing it?

Yes. Guided four-wheel-drive excursions from Fiambalá visit locations such as the Balcón del Pissis, Laguna Azul, and Laguna Verde.

These trips provide views of the mountain without requiring a summit expedition. However, the viewpoints are still at high altitude and require preparation.

Does Monte Pissis have glaciers?

Yes. The massif contains several snowfields and small glaciers, including the area known as the Glaciar de los Argentinos.

The ice is limited compared with the overall size of the mountain, but it is unusually extensive for such an arid part of the Andes.

How many summits does Monte Pissis have?

Five principal named summits are commonly recognized, although some maps and scientific descriptions count additional subsidiary high points.

The broad summit system is one reason historical elevation measurements and ascent records can be difficult to interpret.

Why is Monte Pissis less popular than Aconcagua?

Monte Pissis is more remote, has fewer services, receives less international publicity, and lacks Aconcagua’s Seven Summits status.

Aconcagua also has established ranger stations, organized base camps, and a large commercial guiding industry. Monte Pissis remains a comparatively isolated expedition.

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