The South West Ridge of Mount Drum, commonly known as Hurricane Ridge, is one of the principal mountaineering routes on the 12,010-foot volcanic summit in Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains.
The route climbs the mountain from the southwest, gaining thousands of feet over glaciated terrain, steep snow slopes, exposed ridge crests, cornices, and a series of distinct climbing steps before reaching Mount Drum’s broad upper summit area.
Although the route is generally rated around Alaska Grade 2+, that rating should not be mistaken for an easy climb. Hurricane Ridge is a remote Alaska expedition requiring glacier travel, snow and ice climbing, strong navigation skills, self-sufficiency, and the ability to wait out severe weather.
Its nickname is especially appropriate. Climbers repeatedly report intense winds sweeping across the exposed ridge, sometimes forcing parties to remain in camp for days.
For experienced mountaineers, however, the South West Ridge offers one of the classic ways to climb Mount Drum while surrounded by the enormous volcanic peaks of the Wrangell Mountains.
⚡ Route Quick Facts
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Mountain | Mount Drum |
| Route | South West Ridge |
| Alternate Name | Hurricane Ridge |
| Mountain Elevation | 12,010 feet / 3,661 meters |
| Mountain Range | Wrangell Mountains |
| Location | Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska |
| General Grade | Alaska Grade 2+ |
| Climbing Type | Snow, ice, glacier and alpine ridge climbing |
| Typical Access | Bush plane |
| Common Base-Camp Area | Klawasi pocket glacier / southwest side of Mount Drum |
| Upper Terrain | Four principal ridge steps and summit plateau |
| Primary Hazards | Wind, cornices, steep snow, glaciers, crevasses and severe weather |
| Recorded Second Ascent of Mount Drum | August 26, 1968 via Southwest Ridge |
| Best General Season | Often late spring to early summer |
| Technical Experience Required | Yes |
| Maintained Trail | None |
Conditions on Hurricane Ridge vary enormously from one year to another. Snow depth, glacier conditions, cornices, crevasses, and ridge exposure can all change considerably.
Any historical description should therefore be treated as background rather than current route beta.
🗺️ Where Is Hurricane Ridge?
Hurricane Ridge forms the southwest approach to Mount Drum in Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains.
Mount Drum stands near the western edge of Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve, east of the Copper River and approximately 25 miles from the highway-accessible country around Glennallen.
Nearby mountains include:
- Mount Sanford
- Mount Wrangell
- Ulu Point
- Mount Zanetti
- Snider Peak
Mount Drum rises dramatically above the Copper River Basin.
Its western slopes climb roughly 9,000 feet above surrounding tundra over a relatively short horizontal distance, helping explain why the mountain appears so imposing when viewed from the Glennallen area.
The Southwest Ridge provides access from the mountain’s less catastrophically eroded western and southwestern side.
🌪️ Why Is It Called Hurricane Ridge?
The nickname Hurricane Ridge refers to the intense winds that commonly sweep across Mount Drum’s Southwest Ridge.
The ridge is highly exposed to weather moving through the Copper River region.
Once climbers gain the crest, there is little shelter from sustained wind.
Modern expeditions have described:
- Strong sustained winds
- Ground blizzards
- Blowing snow
- Severe wind chill
- Difficulty erecting or maintaining tents
- Long periods confined to camp
A 2023 expedition encountered forecasts of roughly 35 to 45 mph winds and spent several days waiting for conditions to improve.
The ridge’s shape can also funnel or accelerate wind across exposed campsites.
The Hurricane Ridge name is therefore more than colorful mountaineering terminology. Wind is one of the defining hazards of the route.
✈️ Accessing the Southwest Ridge
There is no road to the base of Mount Drum.
Most climbing expeditions rely on small aircraft to reach the mountain.
Gulkana Airport near Glennallen is one of the logical aviation staging points for flights into the western Wrangell Mountains.
Depending on conditions, aircraft may land on snow, glacier ice, gravel, or another suitable backcountry surface.
A documented 2023 expedition was flown individually by Super Cub to approximately 6,300 feet on the Klawasi pocket glacier, southwest of the ridge.
Landing locations can change dramatically according to:
- Snow conditions
- Glacier conditions
- Aircraft type
- Wind
- Visibility
- Surface quality
- Pilot judgment
Climbers should never assume that a landing site used by a previous expedition will still be safe or available.
🏕️ Base Camp
A southwest-side base camp allows climbers to organize equipment before moving onto Hurricane Ridge.
Depending on the landing site and snow conditions, teams may use:
- Snowshoes
- Skis
- Crampons
- Roped glacier travel
A 2023 team landed near 6,300 feet and traveled roughly a mile toward the 7,000-foot ridge crest before beginning the main ascent.
Parties commonly leave surplus food, fuel, and equipment at base camp rather than carrying everything onto the ridge.
This creates a safety reserve if bad weather delays the climb or prevents the aircraft from returning on schedule.
Extra supplies are especially important in the Wrangells, where flight schedules are always dependent on mountain weather.
🧊 Glacier Approach
The southwest approach involves glaciated terrain.
Glacier conditions can range from heavily snow-covered in spring to increasingly broken later in the summer.
Potential hazards include:
- Crevasses
- Hidden crevasses
- Snow bridges
- Meltwater channels
- Hard glacier ice
- Uneven snow
- Avalanche debris
Early-season snow cover can simplify travel in some locations but may also conceal crevasses.
Later in the season, glacier hazards can become more obvious but more difficult to cross.
Roped glacier travel and crevasse-rescue skills are essential whenever conditions warrant them.
🧗 Gaining Hurricane Ridge
Once climbers reach the main southwest ridge, the route begins a long ascent toward the upper mountain.
The lower portions can involve relatively straightforward snow travel under favorable conditions.
As elevation increases, the ridge becomes narrower and increasingly exposed.
Modern accounts describe establishing camps around:
- 7,500 feet
- Approximately 9,500 feet
- Around 10,200 feet on some itineraries
Exact camp locations depend entirely on snow, weather, group speed, and available protected terrain.
The 9,500-foot area can be particularly exposed to southerly winds moving through the Copper River Valley.
Tent security becomes critical.
Snow walls, strong anchors, and careful campsite selection can make a major difference during prolonged storms.
🧗 The Four Steps of Hurricane Ridge
Modern climbers commonly describe four principal climbing steps on the upper Southwest Ridge.
These features form the technical heart of Hurricane Ridge.
Their exact character varies with snow accumulation and cornice development.
🧗 Step 1
The first major step can involve several hundred feet of increasingly steep snow.
A recent successful ascent described approximately 700 feet of steepening snow leading to a narrow and exposed corniced section of ridge.
Snow protection may be necessary.
The ridge then involves a short descent toward a possible campsite near 10,200 feet.
This combination of ascent, exposure, cornices, and downclimbing establishes the character of the upper route.
🏔️ Step 2
The second step continues along steep ridge terrain.
From below, this section can appear particularly intimidating because of its narrow or fin-like shape.
Under favorable snow conditions, however, the climbing itself may be less difficult than its appearance suggests.
The key issue remains exposure.
A fall from the ridge could have severe consequences.
Running protection using snow pickets may be appropriate depending on conditions.
🧗 Step 3
The third step continues the pattern of ascending ridge traverses followed by smaller descents.
This constant loss and regain of elevation makes Hurricane Ridge more tiring than a simple snow slope.
Climbers must remain focused even when the technical moves are not exceptionally difficult.
Wind and altitude compound the effort.
Cornices also demand careful route selection.
The safest line is not necessarily directly on the apparent ridge crest.
🧊 Step 4
The fourth step represents the final major obstacle before the upper summit terrain.
Its difficulty depends heavily on snow and ice conditions.
After completing the principal ridge obstacles, climbers still need to reach the true summit.
Mount Drum’s upper mountain is broad enough that reaching the end of the obvious ridge does not necessarily mean the climb is finished.
🏔️ The Western High Point and Summit Plateau
One of the deceptive features of Mount Drum is its upper geography.
Hurricane Ridge leads toward a western high point before climbers continue across upper snow terrain toward the true summit.
This can be mentally difficult.
After completing the technical ridge, climbers may expect the summit to be immediately nearby.
Instead, additional traversing can remain.
This is a common feature of large volcanic mountains, where broad summit plateaus make the final section longer than it appears from below.
Route-finding can become particularly challenging during fog or whiteout conditions.
🌄 Reaching the Summit
Mount Drum’s true summit reaches 12,010 feet / 3,661 meters.
On a clear day, the summit offers extraordinary views across the western Wrangell Mountains.
Nearby giants include Mount Sanford and Mount Wrangell.
The Copper River Basin spreads far below to the west.
Mount Drum’s huge topographic prominence—approximately 6,700 feet—gives the summit an unusually commanding position despite several nearby mountains being considerably higher.
The mountain’s isolation and steep local relief make reaching the top feel far more significant than its 12,010-foot elevation might suggest.
🔄 The Descent
The summit is only halfway through the climb.
Descending Hurricane Ridge requires negotiating the same exposed terrain encountered during the ascent.
Potential descent challenges include:
- Steep downclimbing
- Fatigue
- Softening snow
- Cornices
- Increasing wind
- Reduced concentration
- Poor visibility
Sections protected efficiently during the ascent may still require running belays or careful protection during descent.
Climbers also need enough energy to return safely through glacier terrain below the ridge.
Long summit days are normal.
A documented 2023 ascent anticipated roughly 12 to 14 hours for summit day and ultimately required sustained effort across the upper ridge and return.
📜 First Ascent of Mount Drum
Mount Drum was first climbed in 1954 by:
- Heinrich Harrer
- Keith Hart
- George Schaller
Their route was the North Ridge, not Hurricane Ridge.
Bush pilot Herb Haley flew the climbers to a meadow southwest of the mountain.
The team then crossed tundra and glacier terrain before climbing snow and ice onto the upper mountain.
They reached the summit after establishing a high camp around 8,500 feet.
The ascent took place during an era when many of Alaska’s large mountains remained rarely explored.
🧗 First Known Southwest Ridge Ascent
The Southwest Ridge gained historical importance in 1968.
Heinz Allemann and Niklaus Lötscher made the second recorded ascent of Mount Drum on August 26, 1968, climbing via the Southwest Ridge.
Their achievement established Hurricane Ridge as a viable alternative to the North Ridge.
The route later became one of the principal recognized lines on Mount Drum.
🧗 Southwest Ridge Climbs in the 1970s
The route saw additional activity during the following decade.
American Alpine Journal records describe two local parties climbing the Southwest Ridge in early May during the 1970s.
Jim Jennings and Jim Meigs reached the summit after climbing from a camp around 5,600 feet and bivouacking high on the mountain.
Such ascents helped establish the Southwest Ridge as a repeatable route rather than an isolated exploratory climb.
Even then, however, Mount Drum remained a rarely climbed peak.
🧗 A Difficult 1997 Attempt
Hurricane Ridge’s weather reputation is illustrated by a 1997 attempt involving David Hart and Judith Terpstra.
They climbed high on the Southwest Ridge but were forced to turn around at approximately 11,200 feet during a storm.
That attempt highlights one of the central realities of climbing Mount Drum.
Technical ability does not guarantee a summit.
Weather frequently determines whether a team succeeds.
🧗 The 2021 Hurricane Ridge Attempt
Another useful modern account comes from a May 2021 attempt by Benny Lieber and Nick Sweeney.
The climbers spent several days attempting the Southwest Ridge but did not reach the summit.
Their experience again emphasized:
- Cold
- Wind
- Snow conditions
- Expedition logistics
- The unpredictability of Mount Drum
Unsuccessful attempts are an important part of the mountain’s climbing history because they reveal how difficult it can be to combine favorable weather, snow, and route conditions.
🏆 The 2023 Southwest Ridge Ascent
A particularly detailed modern ascent occurred in May 2023.
David Hart, Lee Helzer, and Joe Chmielowski spent approximately 12 days on the mountain.
They landed near 6,300 feet on the Klawasi pocket glacier and moved onto Hurricane Ridge.
Strong winds dominated much of the expedition.
After waiting through several days of poor conditions, the team finally received a workable summit window on May 18.
Their ascent involved the four principal steps of Hurricane Ridge, exposed corniced terrain, snow protection, downclimbing, and the upper summit traverse.
Their success provides some of the best recent documentation of the route.
It also reinforces the importance of patience.
On Mount Drum, waiting for the correct weather window may be just as important as moving efficiently when conditions finally improve.
🌪️ Wind: The Defining Hazard
Of all the hazards associated with Hurricane Ridge, wind deserves special attention.
Strong winds can:
- Damage tents
- Knock climbers off balance
- Produce ground blizzards
- Remove soft snow
- Build or reshape cornices
- Increase wind chill
- Make exposed climbing impossible
- Prevent aircraft pickups
Wind can occasionally improve climbing conditions by stripping loose snow from a ridge and creating a firmer surface.
More often, however, it makes an already exposed route significantly more serious.
Any expedition should bring a shelter system capable of withstanding prolonged Alaska mountain weather.
❄️ Cornices
Cornices form when wind deposits snow beyond the leeward side of a ridge.
They are among the most dangerous features on Hurricane Ridge.
A cornice may look like solid terrain while actually projecting over empty space.
Climbers should avoid assuming that the visible ridge crest represents solid ground.
Signs of cornice danger include:
- Overhanging snow
- Cracks near the ridge
- Wind-loaded slopes
- Unsupported snow formations
The safest route may lie well away from the apparent crest.
Cornice size and position can change enormously from one season to another.
🧊 Snow Conditions
Snow quality strongly influences the difficulty of the Southwest Ridge.
Ideal conditions may provide firm névé that allows efficient cramponing.
Poor conditions can include:
- Knee-deep snow
- Breakable crust
- Wind slab
- Ice
- Loose powder
- Dangerous avalanche layers
Strong wind can also scour slopes down to hard snow or ice.
A route that was straightforward for one expedition may be dramatically harder for the next.
Historical climbing times should therefore never be treated as reliable predictions.
🌨️ Avalanche Hazard
Avalanche conditions are another major concern.
The upper route includes steep snow slopes and wind-loaded terrain.
Wind slabs can develop rapidly.
Storm snow, warming temperatures, and changing sun exposure can all alter stability.
Climbers need enough avalanche experience to assess conditions independently.
There are no ski-patrol forecasts, marked routes, or controlled slopes on Mount Drum.
This is completely uncontrolled alpine terrain.
🌋 Geology of Mount Drum
Mount Drum is an extinct stratovolcano within the Wrangell Mountains.
Its principal volcanic activity occurred hundreds of thousands of years ago.
Repeated eruptions constructed an enormous volcanic edifice from lava flows, breccias, ash deposits, and other volcanic materials.
Later in the volcano’s development, major destructive events dramatically reshaped it.
Part of the southern side collapsed or was destroyed during explosive activity, sending enormous volcanic debris flows across the surrounding landscape.
Glaciers subsequently carved deeply into the weakened volcanic terrain.
Today’s Mount Drum therefore reflects both construction and destruction: volcanic eruptions built the mountain, while explosions, collapse, and glaciers sculpted its modern shape.
🌿 Flora and Fauna
The upper Hurricane Ridge route is far above meaningful vegetation.
Snow, ice, exposed rock, and wind dominate the landscape.
Lower elevations around the southwest approach support much more diverse ecosystems.
🌱 Lower-Elevation Plants
Vegetation may include:
- White spruce
- Black spruce
- Willow
- Alder
- Dwarf birch
- Low shrubs
- Alpine grasses
- Sedges
- Mosses
- Lichens
As climbers gain elevation, vegetation rapidly becomes shorter and more scattered.
Eventually it disappears completely.
🐻 Wildlife
The broader Mount Drum region supports:
- Brown bears
- Black bears
- Caribou
- Dall sheep
- Moose
- Wolves
- Wolverines
- Arctic ground squirrels
- Ptarmigan
- Golden eagles
Wildlife encounters are much more likely around base-camp and approach terrain than high on Hurricane Ridge.
Bear-resistant food storage is required for backcountry trips within Wrangell–St. Elias.
🫁 Altitude
Mount Drum is lower than many of Alaska’s famous high peaks, but altitude can still affect climbers.
At 12,010 feet, possible symptoms include:
- Headache
- Fatigue
- Nausea
- Reduced appetite
- Poor sleep
- Shortness of breath
Climbers flown directly from near sea level to a high glacier camp should be especially aware of rapid elevation gain.
Spending several days gradually moving upward can provide useful acclimatization while also allowing time to evaluate weather and snow.
📅 Best Time to Climb Hurricane Ridge
Many successful Southwest Ridge climbs have occurred during May or early summer.
Spring conditions can provide several advantages:
- Better snow coverage on glaciers
- Stronger snow bridges
- Firmer snow
- Lower rockfall risk
There are also disadvantages:
- Severe storms
- Deep snow
- Low temperatures
- High winds
- Avalanche danger
Later summer can expose more glacier crevasses and increase loose-rock hazards.
No single month guarantees favorable conditions.
The best window is determined by the combination of snowpack, glacier conditions, weather, and aircraft access.
🎒 Equipment
Hurricane Ridge requires full Alaska mountaineering equipment.
Depending on conditions, climbers may need:
- Mountaineering boots
- Crampons
- Ice axes
- Harnesses
- Climbing rope
- Snow pickets
- Crevasse-rescue equipment
- Glacier-travel gear
- Snowshoes or skis
- Avalanche equipment
- Expedition tent
- Cold-weather sleeping system
- Waterproof clothing
- Satellite communication
- Navigation equipment
- Repair kit
- First-aid supplies
- Extra food and fuel
Exact equipment requirements depend on current conditions and team strategy.
Lightweight equipment can make travel more efficient, but insufficient shelter or protection on Hurricane Ridge can have serious consequences.
🛰️ Communication and Rescue
Cellular service should never be relied upon.
Satellite communication is strongly recommended.
Wrangell–St. Elias is one of the largest wilderness landscapes in the United States, and rescue resources may be far away.
Poor weather can also prevent aircraft from reaching the mountain.
Before departure, climbers should leave detailed information with someone outside the expedition, including:
- Planned route
- Team members
- Aircraft operator
- Drop-off location
- Expected pickup date
- Emergency procedures
The National Park Service recommends filing a backcountry itinerary as an additional planning measure.
🏞️ Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve
Hurricane Ridge lies within Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve, the largest national park in the United States.
The park protects more than 13 million acres of mountains, glaciers, rivers, forests, tundra, and wilderness.
Its high peaks are fundamentally different from mountains reached by developed trails elsewhere in the country.
There are no marked summit routes on Mount Drum.
There are no huts.
There are no fixed ropes.
There are no maintained alpine camps.
The National Park Service notes that mountains above 10,000 feet in Wrangell–St. Elias are generally glaciated and typically require long technical expeditions.
🏔️ Nearby Mountains
Hurricane Ridge offers extraordinary views toward several important peaks.
Mount Sanford
Mount Sanford reaches 16,237 feet and is one of North America’s largest volcanic mountains.
Mount Wrangell
Mount Wrangell reaches 14,163 feet and remains volcanically active.
Ulu Point
Ulu Point rises to 13,654 feet near Mount Sanford and is the nearest higher neighbor of Mount Drum.
Mount Drum
Mount Drum itself is lower than several nearby Wrangell summits but possesses remarkable independence and local relief.
Together, these peaks create one of the most impressive volcanic mountain landscapes in Alaska.
🧭 Hurricane Ridge vs. the Sanford Plateau Route
Mount Drum has several distinct approaches and route concepts that should not be confused.
The Mount Drum–Sanford Plateau Route is best understood as a remote backcountry approach and wilderness route through the country surrounding Drum and Sanford.
Hurricane Ridge, by contrast, is a genuine technical climbing route leading toward Mount Drum’s summit.
That makes Hurricane Ridge substantially more serious.
A strong backpacker capable of crossing the Sanford Plateau is not automatically prepared for the Southwest Ridge.
The latter requires glacier and alpine mountaineering skills.
🌄 Why Climb Hurricane Ridge?
The South West Ridge captures nearly everything that defines climbing in Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains.
It is remote.
There is no road to the mountain and no maintained route once the aircraft leaves.
It is exposed.
The nickname Hurricane Ridge exists for good reason, with powerful winds representing one of the route’s most persistent obstacles.
It is technically serious without being an extreme technical climb.
Steep snow, corniced ridges, glacier travel, running protection, and long summit days demand competent mountaineering skills.
And the setting is exceptional.
Climbers move high above the Copper River Basin while enormous Mount Sanford and Mount Wrangell dominate the horizon.
The reward is not simply standing on Mount Drum’s 12,010-foot summit.
It is experiencing a genuine Alaska expedition on a mountain where weather, judgment, patience, and self-sufficiency matter as much as climbing strength.
For mountaineers with the appropriate experience, Mount Drum’s South West Ridge — Hurricane Ridge — remains one of the classic routes of the western Wrangell Mountains.
🔗 Related Articles
- Mount Drum
- Mount Drum – Sanford Plateau Route
- Mount Sanford (Alaska)
- Mount Wrangell
- Ulu Point
- Wrangell Mountains
📚 Sources
- National Park Service — Mountaineering in Wrangell–St. Elias
- National Park Service — Backcountry Travel in Wrangell–St. Elias
- National Park Service — Flying in Wrangell–St. Elias
- National Park Service — Backcountry FAQs
- National Park Service — Permits & Reservations
- National Park Service — Mountains of Wrangell–St. Elias
- Alaska Volcano Observatory — Mount Drum
- American Alpine Club — First Ascent of Mount Drum
- American Alpine Club — Mount Drum, Southwest Ridge, Wrangell Mountains
- Peakbagger — Mount Drum
- Peakbagger — 2023 Mount Drum Southwest Ridge Ascent
- Mountain Project — South West Ridge (Hurricane Ridge)
- CascadeClimbers — Mount Drum Southwest/Hurricane Ridge 2021 Trip Report
