Gangapurna

Gangapurna

Gangapurna is a 7,455-meter (24,458-foot) mountain in Nepal’s Annapurna Himal, rising between Annapurna III and the high ridges extending eastward from Annapurna I. From the village of Manang on the mountain’s northern side, Gangapurna forms an enormous pyramid above its namesake glacier and the turquoise glacial lake at the foot of the valley.

Although it stands lower than several other major summits of the Annapurna massif, Gangapurna is still one of the world’s highest mountains. It has approximately 563 meters (1,847 feet) of topographic prominence and lies only a few kilometers from the higher Annapurna III.

Gangapurna was first climbed on May 6, 1965, during a West German expedition led by Günter Hauser. Six climbers reached the summit that day after ascending the mountain’s southern flank and east ridge. Five more members of the expedition reached the top two days later, meaning every climber and Sherpa on the climbing team ultimately stood on the summit.

Later expeditions opened the west ridge, south face, north face, and several technically demanding variations. Among the most notable were the Canadian first ascent of the south face in 1981, the Slovenian first ascent of the north face in 1989, and the direct Korean Way on the south face in 2016.

⚡ Fast Facts

Fact	Details
Continent	Asia
Country	Nepal
Province	Gandaki Province
Districts	Manang and Kaski
Mountain Range	The Himalayas
Subrange	Annapurna Himal
Mountain Massif	Annapurna Massif
Elevation	7,455 m / 24,458 ft
Prominence	Approximately 563 m / 1,847 ft
Isolation	Approximately 3.24 km / 2.01 mi
Nearest Higher Neighbor (NHN)	Annapurna III
Key Col	Approximately 6,892 m / 22,611 ft
Coordinates	Approximately 28.6053° N, 83.9636° E
Protected Area	Annapurna Conservation Area
First Ascent	May 6, 1965
First Summit Team	Günter Hauser, Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Köllensperger, Erich Reismüller, Ang Temba Sherpa, and Phu Dorje II Sherpa
First-Ascent Route	Southern flank and east ridge
First West-Ridge Ascent	1971
First South-Face Ascent	1981
First North-Face Ascent	1989
Major Modern Route	Korean Way, south face, 2016
Terrain	Glacier, steep snow and ice, rock bands, seracs, ridges, and avalanche terrain

🏔️ Where Is Gangapurna?

Gangapurna rises in the Annapurna Himal of central Nepal, forming part of the great mountain chain north of Pokhara.

The summit stands immediately northwest of Annapurna III and east of several high summits leading toward Annapurna I.

Its northern side towers above the Manang Valley, one of the most dramatic sections of the Annapurna Circuit. Gangapurna Glacier descends from the mountain toward Manang, terminating above a glacial lake that has grown as the glacier has retreated.

The southern side falls toward the immense amphitheater of the Annapurna Sanctuary, although Gangapurna lies toward the northern edge of the sanctuary skyline and is not as prominent from Annapurna Base Camp as Annapurna I or Annapurna Dakshin.

Gangapurna lies entirely within the Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal’s largest conservation area.

📏 How High Is Gangapurna?

Gangapurna reaches 7,455 meters (24,458 feet) above sea level.

Older expedition accounts commonly rounded the height to approximately 24,443 or 24,457 feet, but Nepalese government records and modern topographic mapping use 7,455 meters.

That places Gangapurna among roughly the 60 highest major 7,200-meter peaks in the world, depending on the prominence threshold used to define an independent mountain.

Its elevation is extraordinary by global standards. Gangapurna is higher than every mountain outside Asia, yet it stands among so many higher Himalayan neighbors that it can appear comparatively modest on lists of Annapurna peaks.

Annapurna I reaches 8,091 meters, Annapurna II approximately 7,937 meters, Annapurna III 7,555 meters, and Annapurna IV 7,525 meters.

Gangapurna is therefore one of several 7,000-meter summits packed into a remarkably small section of the central Himalayas.

📐 Prominence and Isolation

Gangapurna has approximately 563 meters (1,847 feet) of topographic prominence.

Its key col lies at approximately 6,892 meters (22,611 feet).

This relatively modest prominence reflects the mountain’s close connection with Annapurna III. Although Gangapurna is enormous in absolute terms, it forms part of a high continuous Himalayan ridge rather than standing completely apart from surrounding summits.

Its topographic isolation is approximately 3.24 kilometers (2.01 miles).

The nearest higher terrain lies on Annapurna III to the southeast.

Gangapurna is therefore best understood as a major summit of the greater Annapurna massif rather than an isolated mountain comparable with an ultra-prominent peak.

🏔️ Gangapurna and the Annapurna Massif

Gangapurna occupies a central position within the Annapurna massif.

Westward from the mountain, a long chain of high ridges and subsidiary peaks eventually connects toward Annapurna I.

Immediately southeast lies Annapurna III.

Farther east rise Annapurna IV and Annapurna II, while Gangapurna itself forms one of the major peaks visible from the Manang Valley.

To the south, the mountain overlooks the huge glacier basins and high walls associated with the Annapurna Sanctuary.

This geography creates dramatically different climbing environments on the mountain’s two sides.

The south side contains an enormous technical face approached through the sanctuary, while the northern side rises directly above the much drier Manang Valley.

📝 What Does Gangapurna Mean?

The name Gangapurna combines elements associated with Hindu religious tradition.

Ganga refers to the goddess Ganga, the divine personification of the sacred Ganges River.

Purna carries meanings associated with fullness or completeness.

The name has consequently been interpreted along the lines of “the goddess filled with water” or “the water-giving goddess.”

The interpretation is particularly fitting because the mountain supports substantial glaciers whose meltwater eventually contributes to major river systems of Nepal.

Historical sources indicate that the local name Gangapurna was already known before the first ascent, although its formal use became much more established after the successful 1965 expedition.

📜 Early Exploration

Gangapurna attracted relatively little attention during the earliest years of Himalayan mountaineering.

Much of the initial focus in the Annapurna region centered on finding and climbing Annapurna I.

The French expedition that made the first ascent of Annapurna I in 1950 approached from the north and explored parts of the surrounding massif, but Gangapurna remained unclimbed.

Aerial photographs and surveys during the 1950s gradually revealed more of the mountain’s imposing southern side.

German climbers became particularly interested in Gangapurna during the early 1960s.

At the time, it was considered one of the more attractive remaining unclimbed 7,000-meter peaks of the Nepal Himalayas.

A West German expedition finally arrived in 1965.

🇩🇪 The 1965 German Expedition

The expedition was led by Günter Hauser and included Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Wünsche, Hermann Köllensperger, Otto Seibold, Erich Reismüller, K. H. Ehlers, and Klaus Ekkerlein.

The climbing team was supported by Sherpas including Ang Temba, Phu Dorje II, and Pemba Norbu.

Gangapurna was the expedition’s principal objective, although the team also hoped to investigate other mountains within the Annapurna Sanctuary.

Base Camp was established unusually low for a Himalayan expedition, at approximately 12,000 feet (3,660 meters).

From there the climbers began constructing a route through the glaciers toward Gangapurna’s southern side.

Five progressively higher camps would eventually be required.

🧊 The Route to the Mountain

Camp I was established at roughly 13,700 feet, followed by Camp II at approximately 16,000 feet and Camp III near 18,700 feet.

The route was threatened by avalanches from the beginning.

Camp I was repeatedly knocked down by powerful blasts of wind preceding avalanches.

Higher on the mountain, the climbers encountered increasingly steep snow and ice.

Camp IV was established at approximately 20,350 feet, but the location proved dangerous.

An avalanche overwhelmed the camp and buried two members of the expedition.

Both were dug from the debris alive after approximately an hour.

The accident could easily have ended the expedition.

Instead, the team continued.

🧗 The 1,300-Foot Ice Face

The greatest technical obstacle on the first-ascent route lay between Camps IV and V.

A snow-and-ice face approximately 1,300 feet (400 meters) high rose at angles reaching around 55 degrees.

Today, 55-degree ice may not sound exceptionally difficult by elite alpine standards, but the challenge was very different in 1965.

The expedition had to transport equipment, establish fixed ropes, cut platforms, and repeatedly move climbers and supplies through the face at elevations above 6,000 meters.

The section took approximately one week to prepare.

Once the face had been overcome, Camp V was established at approximately 22,300 feet (6,800 meters) near the high col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III.

The summit was finally within reach.

🏆 First Ascent — May 6, 1965

The first summit team left the high camp on May 6, 1965.

The group consisted of Günter Hauser, Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Köllensperger, Erich Reismüller, Ang Temba Sherpa, and Phu Dorje II Sherpa.

They followed the upper east ridge toward Gangapurna’s summit.

All six reached the top.

Gangapurna had been climbed for the first time.

The success was particularly impressive because of the difficulties and accidents the expedition had already experienced lower on the mountain.

The expedition was not finished.

🏆 A Second Summit Team

On May 8, the remaining climbers and Sherpa members also reached the summit.

The second group included Hermann Wünsche, Otto Seibold, K. H. Ehlers, Klaus Ekkerlein, and Pemba Norbu Sherpa.

The achievement meant that all eight German climbers and all three high-altitude Sherpas reached the summit during the expedition.

This was unusually comprehensive success for a 1960s Himalayan expedition.

Gangapurna was one of the major unclimbed 7,000-meter mountains at the time, making its first ascent an important achievement in postwar German Himalayan mountaineering.

🏔️ Glacier Dome and Tent Peak

After climbing Gangapurna, members of the expedition turned their attention to other peaks in the Annapurna Sanctuary.

They climbed Tent Peak, now more commonly known as Tharpu Chuli, and also made an ascent of Glacier Dome, now generally called Tarke Kang.

The climbers used Tent Peak partly as a surveying point to improve the limited maps available to them.

This additional work highlights the exploratory nature of Himalayan mountaineering during the 1960s.

Expeditions were not simply following known trails to well-mapped mountains. They often contributed directly to understanding the geography and relationships between peaks.

🧗 The West Ridge

A major new route was established during a Japanese expedition in the early 1970s.

Climbers from the Nagano Mountaineering Association approached through the Annapurna Sanctuary and climbed the west ridge.

On October 15, 1971, expedition leader Kiyoshi Shimizu, Takeshi Akahane, and Girme Dorje Sherpa reached the summit.

Their success was followed by disaster.

Camp II disappeared in an avalanche.

Six expedition members who had been staying there were presumed killed.

Girme Dorje and Pemba Norbu descended to investigate but subsequently disappeared while attempting to return through avalanche-prone terrain.

The expedition ultimately lost eight people, making it one of the darkest episodes in Gangapurna’s climbing history.

🧗 Repeat Ascent of the East Ridge

Japanese climbers returned in 1974.

An Osaka expedition led by Toshio Noshi followed essentially the original east-ridge route used by the German first ascenders.

Takeshi Kikusawa and Shinsuke Fujiwara reached the summit on May 13.

Their route passed through the approximately 6,850-meter col between Gangapurna and Annapurna III.

Although it repeated an existing line, the climb helped confirm the east ridge as one of the mountain’s principal established routes.

🧱 The Great South Face

Gangapurna’s south face eventually became one of its most sought-after technical challenges.

The wall rises roughly 1,500–1,800 meters above the upper glacier.

From below it appears as an enormous sweep of snow, ice, mixed terrain, and rock bands leading toward the summit.

In 1981, a Canadian team consisting of James Blench, John Lauchlan, Dwayne Congdon, and Dave McNab attempted a new line directly up the wall.

Their expedition encountered persistent storms from the beginning.

At one point all four climbers spent a night crowded into a two-person tent that was only partly pitched on a 55-degree ice slope.

The climb was becoming a test of endurance as much as technical ability.

🇨🇦 First Ascent of the South Face

As the Canadians climbed higher, Dwayne Congdon and Dave McNab became too ill to continue.

James Blench and John Lauchlan pressed onward.

They climbed steep ice reaching approximately 80 degrees, mixed terrain, and a major rock band before emerging onto the upper snowfields.

On April 30, 1981, Blench and Lauchlan reached the summit in the middle of a lightning storm.

The ascent was a remarkable achievement for its time and was completed largely in a lightweight style compared with conventional Himalayan siege expeditions.

The descent nearly ended disastrously.

Blench became seriously ill, forcing Lauchlan to spend two days lowering him down the route.

Congdon and McNab eventually met them near the bottom and helped them back to Base Camp.

🧗 The North Face

Gangapurna’s northern side rises directly above the Manang Valley.

For years, climbers investigated possible routes across the north face and adjoining ridges.

Attempts were repeatedly turned back by heavy snowfall and avalanche danger.

A breakthrough finally came in 1989.

A small Slovenian team led by Franc Pušnik attempted the previously unclimbed north face.

The wall rose approximately 1,600 meters above their approach.

Because of avalanche danger, the team fixed ropes on roughly the lower 800 meters.

Higher on the mountain, the climbing became increasingly exposed.

🏆 First Ascent of the North Face

Slovenian climbers Rok Kolar and Stanko Mihev began their final summit push on September 29, 1989.

They bivouacked around 6,800 meters.

Poor weather forced them to spend the following day waiting inside their tent.

On October 1, conditions improved enough for them to continue.

A roughly 400-meter ramp formed the technical crux of the upper face, with snow and ice reaching approximately 65 to 75 degrees.

Kolar and Mihev climbed the ramp, gained the upper ridge, and continued to the summit.

They then descended the same route, rappelling through the steep upper sections.

The climb became the first complete ascent of Gangapurna’s north face.

🇰🇷 Korean Way — 2016

The south face received another major new route in 2016.

Korean climbers Kim Chang-ho, Choi Seok-mun, and Park Joung-yong targeted a direct line to the right of the Canadian route.

The team climbed in a lightweight style with small packs and minimal equipment.

They began the face on October 16.

The route involved steep ice, mixed ground, unstable weather, and difficult route-finding.

Unlike the snowier conditions encountered by the Canadians in 1981, the Korean climbers found sections of relatively bare ice and rock.

They reached the summit on October 22.

🧗 The Korean Way

The new route was named Korean Way and graded approximately ED+.

It created a second major line directly through Gangapurna’s imposing south face.

The climb was notable not only for its technical difficulty but also for the style in which it was completed.

Rather than establish a large chain of fixed camps, the three climbers moved together with relatively little equipment and bivouacked on the face.

The same expedition also attempted the unclimbed Gangapurna West, climbing its south face and reaching the summit ridge.

They stopped approximately 100 meters from the top rather than continue into terrain they considered unacceptably dangerous.

🏔️ Gangapurna West

Gangapurna West, sometimes called Asapurna, lies west of the main summit.

It reaches approximately 7,140 meters according to modern mapping.

The summit is separated from Gangapurna by a long ridge containing several additional high points.

Gangapurna West was officially added to Nepal’s permitted mountaineering list in 2014.

Despite its elevation, it remained unclimbed after the Korean near-ascent in 2016.

Italian climbers Simon Messner and Phillip Pruenster attempted its northern side in 2017 but encountered deep snow and repeated avalanche danger.

The existence of Gangapurna West adds another layer of complexity to the already intricate Annapurna massif.

🧊 Gangapurna Glacier

Gangapurna is closely associated with the large Gangapurna Glacier descending toward the Manang Valley.

The glacier originates beneath Gangapurna and neighboring high peaks and flows northward toward the Marshyangdi drainage.

Its lower section is heavily covered with debris.

At the glacier’s terminus lies Gangapurna Lake, a striking body of glacial meltwater visible near Manang.

The lake is relatively young in geological terms and has expanded as the glacier has retreated.

Repeated photographs taken over several decades show dramatic changes in both the glacier terminus and lake.

🌡️ Retreat of Gangapurna Glacier

Gangapurna Glacier has become an important site for studying Himalayan climate change.

Scientific research using historical photographs, satellite imagery, tree-ring dating, and moraine evidence has reconstructed approximately two centuries of glacier fluctuations.

Researchers identified several major periods of glacier advance or stabilization during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Retreat accelerated substantially from the late 20th century onward.

Between 1979 and 2016, portions of the glacier terminus retreated at rates reaching approximately 24.4 meters per year.

Satellite analysis also showed significant reductions in both glacier length and area between 1988 and 2019.

As the glacier retreated, Gangapurna Lake expanded into the newly exposed terrain.

💧 Gangapurna Lake

Gangapurna Lake lies below the glacier near Manang.

Its pale blue or turquoise water comes largely from glacial melt and suspended mineral particles ground from the surrounding rock.

The lake has become a familiar landmark for trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit.

Views from Manang and nearby slopes show the lake below the debris-covered glacier, with Gangapurna and Annapurna III rising far above.

Its expansion provides a visible example of a process occurring throughout the Himalayas.

As glaciers retreat, depressions left behind can fill with meltwater, producing new or enlarged glacial lakes.

These changes can alter local hydrology and, in some situations, create new glacial-lake hazards.

🌦️ Climate and Weather

Gangapurna lies directly across a major climatic transition in Nepal.

Its southern slopes face the monsoon-influenced Annapurna Sanctuary, where summer precipitation can be extremely heavy.

The northern side descends toward Manang, which lies within the rain shadow of the Annapurna massif.

Annual precipitation in the Manang Valley is consequently much lower than on the southern side of the mountain.

Research near Gangapurna Glacier indicates that the Manang area has a semiarid climate, even though approximately 70% of its annual precipitation still arrives during the summer monsoon.

This creates a striking contrast.

Heavy snow can fall high on Gangapurna while the inhabited valleys below remain remarkably dry.

🌿 Flora and Fauna

Gangapurna lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal’s largest conservation area at approximately 7,629 square kilometers.

The protected landscape spans an enormous range of elevations and environments.

Lower, wetter slopes support forests containing rhododendrons, orchids, oak, bamboo, and conifers.

The Manang side is considerably drier, with open pine and juniper woodland, alpine shrubs, grasslands, and eventually high-altitude steppe.

Above the alpine zone, vegetation disappears as permanent snow, glacier ice, scree, and exposed rock dominate Gangapurna’s upper slopes.

🐾 Wildlife of the Annapurna Region

The Annapurna Conservation Area supports a rich variety of wildlife.

Blue sheep, also known as bharal, inhabit high rocky slopes and alpine grasslands.

The endangered snow leopard survives in suitable remote habitats and preys partly on blue sheep.

Other mammals of the conservation area include musk deer and a variety of smaller high-altitude species.

Birdlife is particularly diverse.

The region supports hundreds of bird species, including the colorful Himalayan monal, as well as koklass and blood pheasants.

The ecological richness is especially remarkable considering that the conservation area extends all the way from relatively warm valleys to the summit of 8,091-meter Annapurna I.

🥾 Gangapurna and the Annapurna Circuit

Gangapurna is one of the most impressive mountains encountered on the Annapurna Circuit.

Trekkers approaching Manang from the east begin to see the mountain rising above the valley.

From Manang itself, Gangapurna and its glacier dominate the southern skyline.

Short acclimatization walks around the village can provide particularly good views of Gangapurna Lake and the glacier.

Trekkers commonly spend an extra day in Manang before continuing toward Yak Kharka and Thorong La, making Gangapurna one of the major mountains associated with the acclimatization stage of the circuit.

No technical climbing is required to enjoy these views.

🏘️ Manang

The village of Manang lies at approximately 3,500 meters on the northern side of the Annapurna massif.

Its dry landscape contrasts sharply with the lush southern valleys around Pokhara.

Traditional stone buildings, Buddhist religious sites, cultivated terraces, and dramatic barren slopes characterize the area.

Gangapurna rises immediately across the valley.

The proximity creates one of the most striking mountain-and-village landscapes along any major Himalayan trekking route.

From Manang, the summit rises nearly four vertical kilometers above the village.

Few accessible settlements offer such a direct view of a 7,000-meter mountain.

🪨 Geology

Gangapurna formed as part of the immense tectonic collision between the Indian and Eurasian plates.

India’s northward movement compressed and thickened the crust, producing the Himalayan mountain chain.

The Annapurna region exposes metamorphic and sedimentary rocks that have been uplifted from deep within the crust and subsequently sculpted by erosion.

Glaciers have been particularly important in shaping the landscape around Gangapurna.

They carved the broad Manang Valley, steep cirques, moraines, and high ridges while transporting huge quantities of broken rock downslope.

The modern retreat of Gangapurna Glacier is revealing landforms that were hidden beneath ice for generations.

🏔️ Nearby Mountains

Annapurna III rises immediately southeast of Gangapurna to approximately 7,555 meters and is its nearest higher neighbor.

Annapurna I stands farther west at 8,091 meters and is the highest mountain of the entire massif.

Annapurna II reaches approximately 7,937 meters farther east.

Annapurna IV rises between Annapurna II and III.

Annapurna Dakshin dominates the southwestern portion of the massif.

Machapuchare rises farther south and forms one of Nepal’s most recognizable mountain profiles.

Tilicho Peak stands west of Gangapurna near the famous Tilicho Lake.

Together these peaks make the Annapurna Himal one of the most concentrated collections of major mountains on Earth.

🧭 Can Gangapurna Be Climbed Today?

Yes. Gangapurna remains on Nepal’s official list of mountains open for permitted expeditions.

Nepalese government records list the mountain at 7,455 meters and identify the normal access from the Kathmandu–Besisahar–Chame side toward Base Camp.

Recent tourism statistics continue to record occasional expedition activity on Gangapurna.

However, it receives far fewer climbers than peaks such as Everest, Manaslu, Ama Dablam, or Himlung Himal.

Gangapurna is not an ordinary commercial climbing objective.

Its routes involve technical snow and ice, complicated glaciers, avalanche danger, seracs, exposed ridges, and extreme altitude.

The major south- and north-face routes are serious technical climbs appropriate only for highly experienced Himalayan mountaineers.

⭐ Why Gangapurna Is Remarkable

Gangapurna combines several different aspects of Himalayan geography in a single mountain.

It is a 7,455-meter summit linked closely to the great Annapurna massif. Its south face has attracted elite alpinists, while its first ascent required weeks of route preparation and survived serious avalanche incidents.

Yet Gangapurna is also unusually accessible visually.

Thousands of trekkers see the mountain from Manang and the Annapurna Circuit without ever setting foot on a glacier.

Below them, Gangapurna Lake provides a visible record of a changing climate as the glacier retreats farther into the mountains.

The contrast is striking.

The 1965 first ascenders battled a 400-meter ice face and buried camps to reach the summit. Modern alpinists have established direct technical routes on both major faces. Scientists now study the glacier below to reconstruct centuries of climatic change.

Gangapurna is therefore more than another high point in the Annapurna massif. It is simultaneously a mountaineering objective, a dominant feature of the Manang landscape, a major glacier system, and a natural record of environmental change in the central Himalayas.

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

Gangapurna mountain and glacier as seen from Manang village, Around Annapurna trek, Nepal Himalayas

How high is Gangapurna?

Gangapurna rises to 7,455 meters (24,458 feet).

Where is Gangapurna?

It is located in Gandaki Province, Nepal, within the Annapurna Himal and Annapurna Conservation Area.

Is Gangapurna part of the Annapurna massif?

Yes. Gangapurna forms part of the high central ridge system of the Annapurna massif.

Who first climbed Gangapurna?

Günter Hauser, Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Köllensperger, Erich Reismüller, Ang Temba Sherpa, and Phu Dorje II Sherpa formed the first summit team.

When was Gangapurna first climbed?

The first ascent was completed on May 6, 1965.

Did other members of the first-ascent expedition reach the summit?

Yes. Five additional expedition members reached the summit on May 8, meaning all eight German climbers and three Sherpas on the climbing team eventually reached the top.

What route was used for the first ascent?

The expedition climbed Gangapurna’s southern flank before gaining the high col and following the east ridge to the summit.

How prominent is Gangapurna?

Its topographic prominence is approximately 563 meters (1,847 feet).

What is Gangapurna’s nearest higher neighbor?

The nearest higher mountain is Annapurna III.

Has the south face of Gangapurna been climbed?

Yes. James Blench and John Lauchlan completed the first ascent of the south face in 1981. A Korean team established another direct route, Korean Way, in 2016.

Has the north face been climbed?

Yes. Rok Kolar and Stanko Mihev completed the first ascent of the north face in 1989.

What is Gangapurna Lake?

Gangapurna Lake is a glacial lake below Gangapurna Glacier near Manang. It has expanded as the glacier has retreated.

Is Gangapurna Glacier retreating?

Yes. Scientific research has documented substantial retreat over recent decades, including rapid recession of the glacier terminus since the late 20th century.

Can Gangapurna be seen from the Annapurna Circuit?

Yes. Gangapurna is especially prominent around Manang and is one of the major mountain views along the Annapurna Circuit.

Can Gangapurna still be climbed?

Yes, with the required Nepalese mountaineering authorization. It remains a serious technical expedition mountain rather than a conventional trekking peak.

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